A booth at the Malaga Fair can serve up to a thousand plates of paella and 400 liters of beer per day.

At the Feria de Málaga, the joy of the fairgoers is also measured in liters, in mugs and glasses raised under the lanterns, and on the other hand, in dishes that arrive at the tables and are received almost with excitement. El Real, from early in the afternoon, turns into a festive feast: liters of beer flowing from the taps, as many of rebujito in glasses with ice, plates of omelets and paellas served as if they came from an infinite source. Each booth hides its own secret, but all agree that the party is not the same without a good toast or without eating a good dish, because so many hours of celebration need fuel. A booth can offer up to a thousand plates of paella and 400 liters of beer daily.

The manager of Caseta Monkey, Alberto Ramírez, explained in statements to this newspaper that each day they empty two barrels of beer and another two of red wine, each one of 50 liters. Added to this is a concoction that "is a hit this year": the paloma, a slushie made from tequila and lime from which about 20 liters have already been served. In cocktails, the hierarchy is met without surprises: first rum, then gin, and in third place vodka. And, for those looking for something more sophisticated, Moët Ice and its rosé version have become the undisputed kings of the toast. "This year we have opted for jack, knight, and king, giving the public what they demand the most," he declared.

At Caseta Arte, the accounts are equally hefty. "I don't know how many, but many," says one of the waitresses with a laugh. Her colleague knows the amounts with a bit more accuracy. The rebujito is measured large: two 50-liter barrels daily. In the afternoon, between 25 and 30 bottles of wine are served, which by nightfall give way to between 40 and 60 bottles of various beverages. Beer, of course, is not far behind: six barrels daily. On the other hand, in the kitchen, each day starts with a paella pan that yields about 250 dishes, served as an attraction.

El Tiro Pichón prefers to focus on the classics that never fail. Wine, they acknowledge, is what sells the least. However, in return, the typical sweet wine of the season reaches great figures: around 50 bottles a day. The rebujito is a smash with about 300 jugs daily, while water, sodas, and beer complete the liquid offerings. In the kitchen, the absolute star is also the paella: no less than 1,000 servings a day, served from six giant paella pans that continuously stir.

At Los Mimbrales, Jessica Ramos precisely knows the arsenal that supports the bar: eight barrels of beer, two boxes of two-liter bottles of summer red wine each, and about 40 or 50 bottles of strong alcohol. But the real party is waged in María Ángeles' kitchen, who manages a menu of 70 dishes and prepares 60 potato omelets at noon daily, with more added in the afternoon. The squids and the house scramble surpass the hundred servings, although the star dish is the tomato cut with tuna: more than 200 portions that fly between tables. "It's what they ask for the most, always goes down well with the heat," the cook confessed.

El Real knows no breaks. With the first cold beers, rebujitos, and summer red wine, it stretches well into the early morning, when the last chords of flamenco from one booth mix with the reggaeton from another. For more than 12 consecutive hours, the booths are places of passage for thousands of Malagueños and visitors who link toasts, shared dishes, and impromptu dances from one to another. The sun scorches the early hours, while the lanterns light up the streets as night falls. In this setting, time seems to blur into a single continuous day of celebration.