The letter from Las Merchanas and Entre Varales, two brotherhood temples in Malaga: from the chorizo heralds to the calvary dish

Amid the scene of crowded streets due to the arrival of Holy Week this Palm Sunday, Malaga is also seen with full capacity in bars and restaurants. So much so that, although the same scene repeats throughout the downtown area, two taverns with a special brotherhood touch stand out: Las Merchanas and Entre Varales. Places where the atmosphere is rekindled with images, dedicated dishes, and background marches; and the most devoted wait in long lines from early in the afternoon.

"It is quite common to come during Holy Week. Even before Palm Sunday, you could already see this atmosphere that we, the brotherhood members, like in the bar. The streets are full, the processions and the floats. It's fantastic for those of us who feel it. This brotherhood energy increases, being surrounded by images, marches. It adds that extra something that you enjoy so much because it's all around you," says Daniel Burgos, one of the hundreds of diners at Las Merchanas II.

Daniel Burgos, with his family at Las Merchanas / Irene Martín Morales

Among its tapas, the moscatel sirloin with Manchego cheese stands out, which has been hard to get due to the difficulty of accessing the venue, where you can expect to wait at least half an hour during peak times: "You have to come well in advance. It usually gets packed," he emphasizes.

Dishes to get into the brotherhood atmosphere

In addition to each typical recipe, the atmosphere is also seen in those presented with brotherhood references. From chorizo pregoneros, or the calvario dish, to a tribuna pa los pobres (with chorizo, egg, loin steak, and a parade of potatoes). As well as a wide catalog of montaditos (penitente, capirote, incense, or nazareno).

Exterior of Las Merchanas on Palm Sunday / Irene Martín Morales

"We are very devoted, my father instilled it in me since I was a child. We come here whenever we can and there's room. It's usually very beautiful and I love the montaditos," says Jaime Romero, who was in the same line as Burgos, waiting to taste them, along with the group accompanying him.

Jaime Romero, in the line at Las Merchanas / Irene Martín Morales

A few meters ahead of him is José Manuel Cuesta with his partner. A customer who also has the tradition of stopping by Las Merchanas after "at least eight years" going there, with an atmosphere that "is enjoyed" from images "of all the heads of the brotherhood and background music."

Entre Varales, another brotherhood landmark

On a parallel street in the same area, meanwhile, several lines of people were accumulating at the doors of Entre Varales, also a recognized brotherhood tavern, which decorates its interior with large images, and shows the passage of the floats in real time from televisions set up to capture the moment.

"You're in the atmosphere also when eating with the music, and being able to watch the videos live and see where the procession is going. Plus, the food is very good and has names characteristic of emblematic streets in Malaga during Holy Week like Carretería, Casa Palma, Tribuna de los Pobres; and of brotherhoods like Pollinica or Prendimiento," narrates Cristian Alés, before they assigned him a table after "a long hour waiting."

Cristian Alés, with his friend at Entre Varales / Irene Martín Morales

At this point, he labels Palm Sunday as "the most special day" to go to lunch at the tavern. Especially since it's "a very long day starting in the morning" and where "it doesn't make sense to go home, you enjoy it from the start," he insists.

This is also corroborated by Cristina Pérez, a client who "usually comes every Holy Week": "We are loyal to this bar. There are typical Malaga dishes and it's worth trying. I don't know the secret they have in the kitchen, but it's the atmosphere, the attention, and the variety. We drop by more than once. Waiting in line is normal, we're used to it, it's lunch, snack, or almost dinner, three in one," she jokes while waiting for her table.

Cristina Pérez with her friend at the entrance of Entre Varales / Irene Martín Morales

For his part, the manager and one of the co-founders of Entre Varales, Francis López, holds expectations for a Sunday "that many people take on with strength," but without rushing since he sees it "like a long-distance race" that lasts all week.

"Here come all the devotees, it's a meeting place for them because they have all their idols here. We all like Holy Week, Malaga is 'devoted to Holy Week'," López concludes, between "a varal skewer and a La Salud salad."