The Empire of Gianni Versace in Malaga: From the Baroque of the New Rich to the 'Boom' of the Supermodels

This is not the Ocean Drive mansion where Gianni Versace lived (and died), but the association between the two places is not so far-fetched. Like that mansion, this one is near the sea, has large windows opening onto an inner garden, and a stunning staircase. This is not Miami Beach, it's the Centro Cultural Fundación Unicaja, the former episcopal palace of Malaga, but right now it is probably the place in the world with the most works by the fashion genius. 'Gianni Versace Retrospective' displays through 120 'looks' and about 400 original pieces—accessories, unpublished photographs, fabrics, drawings, prototypes—all the creative empire of the Italian designer, a fashion revolutionary in the 90s who still transcends generations today.

"Fashion has long entered museums, no one doubts anymore that designers are artists," celebrated José María Luna, who debuted as the director of Cultural Activities at the Fundación Unicaja at this event. The exhibition, unprecedented in Spain and curated by Karl Von der Ahé and Saskia Lubnow, does not follow a chronological order, but a sensory one. Each space transports to an inspiration of the artist: from baroque to minimalism, through punk, bondage, and supermodels. From the gold shirts with lavish prints worn by the new rich of the 90s—countless rappers among them—to the simple chic style embraced by Lady Di, the mesh shirt that Prince wore in a performance, the checkered suit of Elton John, the casual dress of Kate Moss, or the daring DIY aesthetic with huge visible safety pins with which Liz Hurley overshadowed Hugh Grant at the premiere of 'Four Weddings and a Funeral'.

But first, the exhibition places him in his context. His life line runs along the wall of the first room, with the main milestones of his career, while his voice plays in the background in a video by Richard Avedon. His cologne, his collaboration with artists like Julian Schnabel, original invitations to his shows, and other objects lead to the recreation of his atelier, with scraps of fabric, buttons, and all sorts of accessories on the tables. Crossing the central courtyard of the cultural center, we enter the Miami Beach mansion, with a bed dressed in a Versace quilt in front of the large window overlooking the courtyard, and a selection of designs inspired by that beachy and tropical environment of the coast. Shells, starfish, palm trees, and flowers cover jackets, shirts, lycra pants, shirts tied at the chest, and casual-style shorts, but with the unmistakable signature of Versace. In this room, images from the book 'South Beach Stories', very hard to find, are projected, where Gianni poured his tropical dreams into photographs, illustrations, and collage.

On the upper floor, his creative universe takes shape. With Greek music in the background, it is recalled that Versace was a son of Reggio di Calabria, an Italian region that belonged to Magna Graecia, where he grew up in a matriarchy surrounded by remnants of Greco-Latin culture. From there those early designs, in the 80s, reminiscent of togas and dresses that covered the goddesses. But even then, he reinterpreted those influences by incorporating for the first time an essential of his fashion: the metallic mesh, with a fluid appearance and transparencies, which he created with a fabric called Oroton. From then on, they never missed from his successive collections.

The 'baroque' of his style is displayed here in a baroque room as well, with mirrors on the sides and covered in fabrics with Versace's iconic prints. It's the early 90s and the new rich in the US and Europe adopt this aesthetic: they didn't want to dress like the traditional wealthy, more classic, and seek to differentiate themselves with excessive and extravagant looks where gold color, fabrics with chains, flowers, and crowns predominate. Pure Versace. Curiously, two rooms later, the last great revolution of Versace is discovered with the motto "simplicity is the ultimate sophistication"; a sophisticated line of solid colors and simple patterns that enchanted Princess Diana of Wales after her divorce, when she was free to wear something other than British fashion. A contrast that shows his versatility.

By then, it was already the last throes of an emblematic era in the history of fashion with women's names: Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington... The supermodels. A Gianni Versace fashion show from the fall/winter 1991-92 collection marked the "birth" of a generation of superstar models. They were all there, striding powerfully down the runway to the rhythm of 'Freedom' by George Michael, who also provides the music for this room. Around a dozen designs from that time, unpublished photos by Paolo Castaldi from the 'backstage' are displayed.

The entrance to the exhibition, open until June 30, is a charitable donation of 3 euros and the proceeds will go entirely to the Fundación Quiero Trabajo and the Asociación Dosta Con Alma Gitana. In addition, free guided tours for groups of up to 25 people will be offered, Monday to Friday at 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 16:30, and 17:30; Saturdays at 11:00, 12:00, 16:30, and 17:30; and Sundays at 11:00 and 12:00. Also, two tours in English will be organized on Fridays at 17:00 and Saturdays at 12:30. Visits can be booked through mediacionculturalmalaga@fundacionunicaja.com or by phone at 952 62 48 62.