The tradition that lies between a parade and a live nativity scene in Malaga

Due to the day it is celebrated and the route it takes, one might first think it is just another parade. However, it also features aspects of a living nativity scene, including a theatrical performance.

It is clear that the tradition of celebrating the Sacramental Auto of the Magi is quite unusual. At least in the province of Málaga, as there are other Andalusian localities or from the Levante that also do it, although not always on the eve of Epiphany.

This theatrical representation, also known as the Adoration of the Magi, has an uncertain origin, although it seems to have been written in the 20th century. The original text was found over a century ago. Considered the first theatrical work in Spanish, it remains very much alive today thanks to residents like those in Benarrabá who have decided to perpetuate it within their festive calendar.

Thus, in this village of the Lower Genal, every January 5th, around nine at night, a good part of the inhabitants are involved in the performance of a true theatrical work that travels through different corners of the urban area.

Unlike typical parades, here there is a genuine story that unfolds in five different acts: from the arrival in Bethlehem of Mary and Joseph to the meeting of Their Majesties from the East with the Child Jesus.

In this way, the procession travels through some of the most famous sites in Benarrabá. The main characters are Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar, who, instead of riding camels, use mules. The monarchs will be accompanied by pages, little shepherds, or angels, who along with the attending public, will sing carols.

All of them will be guided by a star, which each year is usually carried by the best donkey of the municipality.

The climax of this sacramental auto usually takes place in the church of Our Lady of the Incarnation, where the Magi give the traditional gifts to the children of the village.

It is a good occasion to get to know this charming mountain village, which is ideally located to enjoy the Genal Valley. Indeed, from there, there are excellent panoramic views and even many hiking trails to take advantage of the day.

But, first, it is advisable to tour the urban center. Especially around the parish of Our Lady of the Incarnation, since it is the most decorated area, with colorful pots and well-maintained facades.

In addition to the mentioned church, it is advisable to visit the hermitage of Christ of the True Cross, a very emblematic sanctuary for the locals.

As for hiking trails, there is much to choose from. The toughest, but particularly rewarding, is the one that leads to its neighbor Genalguacil, located across the valley. For this, from the urban center itself, a beautiful descent among chestnut trees – in the early days of winter, without leaves – is proposed, until reaching the Prado de la Escribana, a recreational area located along the Genal river. From there, the toughest part begins, ascending a winding path to Genalguacil.

Benarrabá also has paths that connect it with other neighboring villages of the Genal, such as Gaucín or Algatocín. To this, we must add other simpler routes that can be done in a single morning or at most until early afternoon. Among them are the Llano del Rey and the Concoste-La Portá. Both are circular, as is the Ornithological, one of the latest to join its network of trails.

Benarrabá also has undeniable gastronomic attractions. There, they boast of the tradition of making meat salmorejo, which can be found in at least two dining establishments. Behind its name hides a recipe as ancient as it is tasty. There is also room for their sausages and other pork derivatives.

Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation. This parish, whose colorful tower is visible from much of the urban area, dates from the 18th century. Indeed, today it retains many of its original Baroque features. It was later restored during the 19th century. Where: Access via Calzada street.

Hermitage of the Holy Christ of the True Cross. This emblematic sanctuary, which was erected in the same century as the church, is located in the square of the same name. In its beginnings, it was state-owned, although the worship was always funded by the locals themselves. Where: Plaza de la Vera Cruz.

Old town. In the most traditional streets of Benarrabá, such as those surrounding the church of the Incarnation, it is possible to find the typical physiognomy of the white Andalusian mountain villages, with colorful pots and very well whitewashed facades. Where: Around the church.

Prado de la Escribana. From the village, you can make a beautiful route to this riverside enclave or even continue to the village of Genalguacil or the San Juan bridge. Where: On the Genal river.

Kábilas. Organic goat garlic, Iberian acorn-fed pork pluma, or the traditional meat salmorejo are some of the specialties of this restaurant, which belongs to the Banu Rabbah hotel. You can also order hearty dishes like 'güevos' bandoleros (similar to the Montes dish) or migas (only on weekends). It features a cozy lounge and a spacious terrace with panoramic views when the weather is good. Where: Calle Sierra Bermeja, s/n, 29490 Benarrabá. Phone: 952 150 288.

Barroso. Pig's trotters, cheek meat, tripe with chickpeas, or meat salmorejo. These are just some of the seasonal options that can be ordered in this cozy bar, which lights its fireplace on the coldest days of the year. Where: Calle Pósito, 16. 29490 Benarrabá. Phone: 663 365 437.

Banu Rabbah. Comfortable and with views of the mountains. These are just two of the attributes of this cozy hotel located at one end of the urban center of Benarrabá. From there, you can make a beautiful route to the plain of the Escribana or simply take a walk through the center of the village. Where: Calle Sierra Bermeja, s/n, 29490 Benarrabá. Phone: 952 150 288. www.hbenarraba.com

Benarrabá Hostel. This unique accommodation concept has been operating in this Malaga village for over three years. It has rooms prepared for up to a dozen people. Where: Plaza Veracruz, 1, 29490 Benarrabá. Tel. 622 247 096. www.benarrabahostel.es