Goodbye to El Diamante: The Breakfast Bar (and Strawberry Milk) That Withstood Trends
Francis Cerezo, the owner, is retiring due to illness and the business is closing while waiting to find new owners.
Every morning the same ritual. As if the coffee maker had memorized the names and faces, just walking past the door a couple of times was enough for the staff at El Diamante, on Pozos Dulces street, a discreet corner in downtown Málaga, to anticipate your breakfast order. "Kid, a double half?" "Just an Americano?" "A sad shadow?" meaning decaffeinated. Because here, decaffeinated coffee did not go unnoticed: a spoon on top of the glass to mark the offense. It was the voice of Francis, half of this historic breakfast bar that was never trendy but always a tradition. A few meters away, by the toaster, stood Mariví. The other half. She handled the pitufos. And the molletes. A Málaga was salchichón. Because El Diamante has its own language, one that now, with Francis's forced retirement due to illness, is getting lost among specialty coffees and brunches.
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SURThere was no room for innovation here. The most modern thing was the card reader, which many customers used to pay and lighten the load for a couple overwhelmed during four hours each morning, always without losing their cool. They even kept strawberry milk: pure sugar with coloring that was a hit in the joyful nineties. Because before avocado and cottage cheese became trendy in Málaga, there was already a unique way of having breakfast and coffee. "I serve the usual," Mariví summarized: "salchichón, oil and tomato, serrano ham, zurrapa, turkey, york, and cheese." And from her hands came more than two hundred pitufos each day: little blue cartoons for those unfamiliar with the place, ideally sized sandwiches —neither big nor small— to start the day.
A Lifetime
They entered the business very young, just after he finished military service, and it became a lifetime: more than thirty years behind the counter that have allowed them to see customers' children grow up, to know who needs a chat and who prefers silence, who has a sharp wit and who is better not even coughed at. And, as the city center changed its skin like a snake becoming less recognizable—stores opening and closing, franchises, terraces, locks on benches—El Diamante maintained its status as a bar as an extension of the neighborhood, as a meeting point for its people. Therefore, the closure, although temporary, and even if other owners take over the business, signifies in a way the end of an era. No epic goodbyes, just exhaustion and a bad diagnosis.
This historic breakfast bar in the heart of the city was never trendy but always a tradition
The history of this bar dates back to the post-war period, when José Gálvez Toro, a descendant of the Gálvez from Macharaviaya, and his wife Aurora Toro, also a first cousin, founded it in the late forties. Initially on Compañía street under the name El Brillante and later, forced to move due to economic disagreements with the landlords, as El Diamante on Pozos Dulces. In the eighties, they transferred the premises to their own employees, but the death of José Montilla, one of them, led in the nineties to Francisco Cerezo, a young man who had been working as a waiter for several years, taking over the business, first alone and later with Mariví Castillo, who became his work and life partner. The rest is, indeed, city history.
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