The Malaga spa that smells of sulfur, holds a devil's legend, and where bathing is free

There are places in the province of Málaga where the landscape seems to speak before words do. In the heart of the Utrera massif, amongst rock formations and water channels that have shaped the terrain for centuries, there emerges a spot where the smell of sulfur announces that something unique is happening beneath the surface. Here, the water springs warm, loaded with history and wrapped in stories that mix the divine and the demonic. The Baños de la Hedionda are not only a vestige of the past but also a setting where nature, architecture, and legend coexist in balance.

Located about 20 minutes from Casares, the Baños de la Hedionda are situated in a natural environment of great value, on the right bank of the Arroyo Albarrán. This natural spa is known for its sulfurous waters, easily recognizable by their characteristic sulfur smell, which has named the place and fueled its fame over the centuries.

A Roman origin marked by history

The origin of the Baños de la Hedionda dates back to 61 BC, during the Roman era. According to historical tradition, it was the troops of Julius Caesar, camped in the area during their confrontation with Pompey, who discovered the healing properties of these waters. Legend has it that Caesar himself suffered from a herpes infection and, after experiencing a notable improvement from bathing in the spring, ordered the construction of a spa facility for its use.

This episode placed the Baños de la Hedionda within the network of Roman thermal spaces, conceived not only as places of hygiene but also as centers of health and sociability. The footprint of that first construction is still visible in the current structure of the site.

The legend of the devil and the sulfur smell

Beyond its historical origin, the Baños de la Hedionda are deeply linked to one of the most popular legends of the local imagination. Various stories passed down through the centuries claim that the sulfur smell of the waters is because the devil exhaled his last breath here after being defeated and expelled by the Apostle James.

This story, recorded by travelers and chroniclers, has contributed to giving the place a mysterious aura that adds to its heritage value. The coexistence between historical facts and legendary narratives strengthens the identity of the site and explains its constant appeal over time.

Thermal architecture between Rome and Al-Andalus

The enclosure of the Baños de la Hedionda features a unique architecture, resulting from different construction phases. The original Roman structure is organized around a square floor plan, covered by a spherical vault supported on squinches, to which two barrel vaults on the east side are added.

During the Andalusian period, the complex was remodeled to adapt to the variations in the spring's flow. Walls were reinforced and water channels improved, maintaining the therapeutic use of the space. In the 17th century, new interventions were undertaken, which continued until the end of the 20th century, consolidating the building as it is known today.

In 2016, natural pools were incorporated in the immediate surroundings, integrated into the landscape and designed to complement the use of the historical spa without altering its essence.

A natural environment linked to water

The environment surrounding the Baños de la Hedionda reinforces its heritage value. Nearby, irrigation channels, bridges, and aqueducts from modern and contemporary times are preserved, evidence of the traditional use of water in this area of inland Málaga. These elements form a cultural landscape in which human intervention has dialogued with the natural environment for centuries.

The Arroyo Albarrán, along with the natural pools formed downstream, completes a scenario where water is the central axis of the territory.

Access, visits, and free baths

Access to the Baños de la Hedionda is via the Manilva river course. The path starts from the municipality of the same name, runs under the AP-7 highway viaduct, and continues along a dirt road that leads directly to the spa.

To ensure the conservation of the historical site, the Casares Town Hall has established a capacity control system during the high season, from June to September. During this period, access to the interior of the spa is limited to 24 people and is organized in specific time slots. Outside the enclosure, the natural pools allow bathing freely, maintaining the accessible and free character that defines this unique Malaga spa.